I used to have a signature fragrance: Kiton Red. Kiton ,is an Italian menswear brand and their fragrances in the uk used to be distributed by Estée Lauder. But then it disappeared from uk stores. However Kiton Red is back but rather than the original Eau de toilette it’s in an Eau de Parfum formula which I recently bought for £260 from the Kiton boutique in Harrods. An expensive price tag and a lot more expensive then its Eau de toilette predecessor, but I loved the original so much, I had to have it. However, it appears to have been ‘re-interpreted with contemporary notes’ according to the website, and although the top notes are very familiar and beautiful ,the ‘dry down’, which is the final scent left on the skin smells different and is disappointing plus doesn’t appear to last that long.
I don’t know about you but when I apply a fragrance I want it to last as long as possible.
So, it was a mission for me to find a fragrance that suits me but also lasts on the skin plus I also wanted to try brands that are lesser known like Simone Andreoli Parfum and Ormonde Jayne London.I asked Ormonde Jayne founder Linda Pilkington ,whose new flagship boutique has just opened in the Royal Arcade on Old Bond Street, what her thoughts are on the evolution of perfume and what consumers now wanted for 2024. “I have noticed an increased interest into the provenance of perfumes and their ingredients. Customers wish to know exactly what is in their treasured bottle, where was it made, how was it made and stored? Also, the longevity of perfumes is increasingly discussed by perfume reviewers online, almost more than the scent itself . It’s important to us too which is why even our Signature Collection is now poured at Pure Parfum strength.” Are there exciting ingredients that seem to be gaining popularity? “Madagascan and Bourbon Vanilla along with Palo Santo Musc and Wood Essence.” Says Peter Murray founder of Pulse Of Perfumery boutique in Knutsford, Cheshire .”Cherry (Kirsch) Rum, Tonka Bean are popular ingredients whilst Oud, continues to be one of ,if not the most requested fragrance type by many of our clients, both new and established”
Oud is certainly an ingredient that I’ve been drawn to especially when it’s carefully blended so as not to overpower the rest of the notes or ,indeed ,the wearer. Stand out fragrances for the lovers of Oud include Nawab of Oudh by Ormonde Jayne, Oud Save The King by Atkinson’s and Halfeti by Penhaligons.
If you want your fragrance to last longer then swap your Eau de toilette for a more concentrated Eau De Parfum or Parfum. These are pricier but you use less. Also try ‘layering’ the fragrance, which involves using a shower gel followed by body creams in that particular fragrance.
Montebaco Flor- Ormonde Jayne London , 88ml , £220 www.ormondejayne.com
The original Montebaco has been a best seller for this london based perfumer but this month they have launched an elegant twist on their classic: Montebaco Flor opens with zesty Orange Absolue , Bergamot and Sage clary before giving way to a floral bouquet including Gardenia , Freesia , Violet and Water Lily before revealing the smoky sophisticated warmth of Tobacco Leaf, Sandlewood , Suede and Ambergris.
Born From Fire- Simone Andreoli, 100ml, £150 www.pulseofperfumery.com
I have fallen in love with this oriental/spicy/vanilla fragrance.
An exotic blend of ingredients including oud , saffron, cashmere, rose , vetiver and burnt sugar create an intense and seductive scent. This homage to the stunning volcanic island of Maui has a high oil content which creates a stunning gleam to the skin allowing it to glisten. I always get comments wearing this.
Discover the 7- Bastille , 7x 2ml, £30, www.bastilleparfums.com
This is a great way to try something different as all seven fragrances are very different so there’s bound to be one that captures your heart. Order this set online and whichever you like, if you purchase the 50ml or 100ml within the month of the set arriving , you will get your £30 off the price. I think it also a lovely gift idea as buying a fragrance for someone is so personal that this way your friend or loved one gets to choose which they prefer.
Armand Beasley is a celebrity makeup artist and beauty columnist. He is a regular contributor to beauty magazines and publications, and appears on TV, radio and podcasts.